May 3rd, 2019

Squirrel Removal Costs in West New York, NJ in 2019

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Squirrel Removal Hudson County Costs

Knowing the squirrel removal West New York costs is recommended before starting a squirrel removal project. While looking at national averages can give a general idea, such numbers usually do not include factors which may affect the final price, such as local labor hourly rates, material costs and any local permits required for the West New York squirrel removal project.

As our numbers show in 2019 average cost that homeowners paid for animal control in Hudson county is between $119.00 and $833.00.

For reference it may be helpful to compare the costs from surrounding towns as well:

Squirrel removal near me is a term you won’t need to search for twice. The right squirrel control in West New York, NJ takes care of the issue so you can sleep soundly at night. You’ll be able to hire the best squirrel exterminator knowing they are skilled at what they do.

What type of pests do you have?

A professional will come to your home to assess the situation. They’ll take into account the damage that is being done by the squirrels and how they’re entering your property. The contractor that does squirrel control in West New York, NJ works to block any entrances that allow the rodents into your home. This involves sealing off holes that lead to the interior of the residence to keep the squirrels out for good.

The exterminator then sets traps to catch the squirrels. They may even use poisoned bait to rid your residence of the problem. Any squirrel found in your home is removed so that they don’t cause an issue for you later on. You won’t need to worry about them chewing up your wiring or causing damage to your roof or cabling anymore. The rodents don’t stand a chance when up against a professional squirrel control contractor in West New York, NJ.

Yes, they most definitely are. The safety of your family and pets are of great concern to the contractor. They take the safest plan of action to rid your home of squirrels without harming your loved ones. Bait may not be an option for some customers who have small children and dogs or cats who could find the poison and consume it. In these cases, different methods of dealing with the squirrels are utilized.

Let the squirrel exterminator in West New York know your situation right away. They’ll be able to come up with a solution that meets your needs better. Traps will likely be used in place of bait, and the exterminator will then deal with the rodent accordingly. You can be sure squirrels will not have a chance to re-enter your home after the contractor has dealt with them. You’ll not experience the type of damage that you had with a squirrel infestation after the exterminator has visited your home.

It all depends on how many rodents there are in the area. If there are a lot of squirrels, it will take longer to deal with them. One of several visits may be required to trap them or remove them after they’ve been poisoned. If only a few squirrels are found in the home, it may take just a visit or two to completely remedy the problem.

Being aware of the process helps you know what to expect, so talk to the contractor about the timeframe they hope to have the job completed in. That way, you’ll be able to make plans in your schedule and you’ll be well aware of when the contractors are coming.

Squirrel Removal Costs in West New York, NJ in 2019

April 28th, 2019

squirrel pest control | squirrel control manhattan …

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There are four species of tree squirrels in NYC, excluding the small nocturnal flying squirrel, which is not considered a pest. Of the four, two species are native and two are introduced from the eastern part of the United States. In their natural habitats they eat a variety of foods including fungi, insects, bird eggs and young birds, pine nuts, and acorns, plus a wide range of other seeds.

Douglas squirrel, or chickaree red squirrel, Western gray squirrel, Northern flying squirrel.

Squirrels cause damage around homes and gardens, where they feed on immature and mature almonds, English and black walnuts, oranges, avocados, apples, apricots, and a variety of other plants. During ground foraging they may feed on strawberries, tomatoes, corn, and other crops. They also have a habit, principally in the fall, of digging holes in garden soil or in turf, where they bury nuts, acorns, or other seeds. This caching of food, which they may or may not ever retrieve, raises havoc in the garden and tears up a well-groomed lawn. Squirrels gnaw on telephone cables and may chew their way into wooden buildings or invade attics through gaps or broken vent screens. Tree squirrels carry certain diseases such as tularemia and ringworm that are transmissible to people. They are frequently infested with fleas, mites, and other ectoparasites.


Food and Feeding Habits:Tree squirrels feed mostly on plant material, including seeds, nuts, acorns, tree buds, berries, leaves, and twigs. However, they are opportunists and also eat fungi, insects, and occasionally birds eggs and nestlings. Squirrels store food and recover it as needed. Hollow trees, stumps, and abandoned animal burrows are used as storage sites; flowerpots, exhaust pipes, and abandoned cars are also used. Scientists credit flying squirrels with helping forest health by spreading species of fungi that help trees grow. .

Preventing: Dont feed squirrels. Tree squirrels that are hand-fed may lose their fear of humans and become aggressive when they dont get food as expected. These semi-tame squirrels also might approach a neighbor who doesnt share your appreciation of the animals, which would likely result in them dying.


Repair or replace loose or rotting siding, boards, and shingles. When inspecting a building for potential access points, use a tall ladder to view areas in shadows. A pair of low-power (4x) binoculars can be a helpful inspection tool to use before making a dangerous climb. Inspecting the attic or crawl space during the day may reveal light shining through otherwise unnoticed cracks and holes. Native squirrels chew holes 2 inches in diameter; Eastern gray and fox squirrels chew open baseball size holes.

If you ever have any bug related questions feel free to call us either at Beyond Pest Control. Once again, and I cant stress this enough we are on call twenty four hours a day seven days a week to kill those bugs, we arent kidding whether you call us at 9 am or midnight we will be available to take your call and either get rid of the bug infestation, or answer any questions you may have concerning the bug issue. I can honestly guarantee that there will be someone to answer that call. We make it our business to make you bug free!

If you have any questions about pest control check out the rest of our website or go to our blog at

Our pest control specialists service all NYC boroughs, including Queens, Brooklyn, Bronx, Manhattan, Long Island (both Nassau & Suffolk counties), Staten Island and even both Westchester & Rockland counties.

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April 22nd, 2019


Comments Off on Wood Rat (Pack Rat) – PEST CONTROL CANADA, NYC Squirrel Pest Control, by admin.


The bushy tailed woodrat is the only native rat found in Canada. It is immediately distinguished from the introduced Norway and Roof rats by its bushy tail.

It is a large, gentle, squirrel-like rodent. Its adult fur coat is long, soft, dense, usually grey on the back and with tawny brown sides. The undersides and feet are white.

Measurements of males are: total length, 280-460 mm (11-18 in), tail, 105 -222 mm (4-8.75 in), weight, 211-526 g (7.4-18.4 oz). Males are 8-10 per cent larger than females.

Woodrats are active all year and primarily solitary and nocturnal. They are most active during the first half hour after sunset and dawn. One individual to 20 acres is an average density in its preferred habitat.

Their presence is characterized by their large bulky residence composed of twigs, bones, foliage, debris and all manner of human artifacts, some containing up to three bushels of material. Their actual nest is sited in the centre of this mound, and is made of shredded bark, grass and moss and if in human environments, soft, shredded cloth, cotton batting, wool, etc. The nest itself is tidy but nearby are the toilet areas, where the waste encrusts and stains and cements loose debris to the rocks.

For food, they prefer the leaves of aspen, willows, roses, cherries, currants, snowberries and elderberries, but will also eat the twigs and needles of Douglas-fir, Alpine Fir, Englemann Spruce and junipers. They also use the seeds and fruit of Douglas-fir, anemones, gooseberries, cinquefoils, raspberries, fireweed, gentians, elderberries, honeysuckles and goldenrod. In autumn, they are provident, collecting and curing the available food items, and stockpiling them in crevices and under large boulders for their winter needs.

Beginning in February, the male meet up with a female and pursues her until they mate in March. The gestation period is 27 to 32 days. After the young are born, the female, who is dominant, drives out the male. The litter size is one to six (average 3.5). Under favourable conditions, two litters, about two months apart, are produced, but in the northern part of its range, usually only one. The young are weaned at age 26 to 30 days and reach maturity when about eleven months old.


Distribution within British ColumbiaMost literature reports that the bushy-tailed woodrat is found throughout all of British Columbias mainland and is absent from the coastal islands Some authors, however, report that this rodent is also absent from the northeast and northwest corners of the province.

This rodent is not considered to be in jeopardy and is, therefore, not protected (Stevens and Lofts 1988).

Habitat requirementsThe bushy-tailed woodrat requires habitat that offers good security cover. Activity is significantly higher in areas that have 75 to 100% cover than in areas with less cover. The cover provided within rocky habitats such as talus slopes, caves, cliffs, river canyons, and rock outcrops in open forests appear to be favorite habitats for this woodrat. In the absence of rocky habitat, security cover can be provided by logging slash, hollow logs, abandoned buildings, and mine shafts.

Woodrat habitats provide woodrats with a suitable sites for building their stick houses. Woodrats owe their other common name of pack rat to their association with stick houses, which are generally quite large (1 to 1.8 m in height) and built out of woody debris, dried vegetation, and other objects the woodrat can collect, including human artifacts such as silverware, jewelry and clothing. These houses are preferably situated within the shelter of a rocky overhang, but can sometimes be found in the open or even up a tree.

Although they are often referred to as houses, the piles of debris created by woodrats do not often function as shelters and woodrats do not usually reside therein. Large woodrat piles function more as a storage dump than a house. Their true nests are small (about 15 cm in diameter), cup shaped, and are made up of finely shredded bark and other soft materials such as fur. These nests may be found within the larger stick house, but are more commonly found in a sheltered spot nearby.

Food habitsThe woodrat is an omnivorous rodent that will make a meal out of a variety of plants, insects, small amphibians, and carrion. The majority of the woodrats diet is comprised of green and dry vegetation. Preference is shown for the foliage of herbs, shrubs, and trees, but not grasses. They also feed on the vascular tissues of Douglas-fir, Sitka spruce, and western hemlock. Willow leaves are also a favoured food. Bushy-tailed woodrats stockpile large quantities of dried vegetation to sustain them throughout the winter months.

Daily activity and movement patternsThe bushy-tailed woodrat is nocturnal in activity, but, can be observed occasionally during the day. They will rarely venture far from the nest. Although the bushy-tailed woodrat can climb trees, and will occasionally locate its stick house up a tree, it is less arboreal than its semi-arboreal cousin, the dusky-footed woodrat.

Bushy-tailed woodrats are a solitary species that defend territories. Males spend considerable time marking their territory with their ventral musk glands, which they rub on toilet posts, food caches, and nests.

Seasonal activities and movement patternsThe bushy-tailed woodrat does not hibernate, instead it actively prepares for the winter by stockpiling a cache of vegetation, which it gathers and dries in the sun during the growing season. Winter months are primarily spent below the snow among the cover provided by their rocky habitat, however, short trips may be made over the snows surface.

Woodrats remain solitary, except during the breeding season, which in British Columbia begins in late March and lasts until late May. After a gestation period of 27 to 32 days females give birth to an average of four young (range of one to six) during early May to late June. Several authors report that the bushy-tailed woodrat has multiple litters per year however within British Columbia, the woodrat is commonly reported as having only a single litter per year.

Bushy-tailed woodrats do not travel significant distances throughout the year (with perhaps the exception of dispersing juveniles), remaining in the near vicinity of their stick houses and nesting sites.

Physical Sign

Good indicators of bushy-tailed woodrat presence are the deposits of urine and feces that accumulate within this animals home range. Feces and urine can form a thick tar-like substance (often mistaken for some kind of mineral), if deposited in a spot sheltered from the rain, such as within a cave or under a rock overhang. Bright white streaks result from urine deposited on rocks not sheltered from the rain. The rain is thought to leach out the organic components of the urine leaving a white calcareous deposit behind. These white deposits are useful sign to look for when sampling for bushy-tailed woodrats, as they can be observed from a distance and are often indicative of occupation (or former occupation) of an area by a woodrat.

Because feces and urine deposits are very persistent, lasting for thousands of years in sheltered areas such as caves, and decades on exposed surfaces such as cliffs, care must be taken not to confuse past use of a site with that of current use. Simply locating fresh streaks of urine can quickly answer this question. Fresh urine can be recognized by its transparent yellow to opaque brown colour, skunky odour, and stickiness.

Stick houses

Bushy-tailed woodrats are or have recently been present in a study area if an investigator discovers the large stick houses used by this woodrat. These structures, made primarily out of woody material and a variety of other debris, are often located in a sheltered area such as a cave, under a rock ledge, within an abandoned building, around the base of a tree or log, inside a hollow snag, or sometimes even up a tree. Although woodrat houses are usually not placed in the open, because of their large size (0.9 to 1.8 m), they can usually be spotted with relative ease.

Damage caused by feeding and construction

Because the bushy-tailed woodrat is an animal that feeds on a large variety of plants within its home range, clipped shoots and branches, with the usual oblique cut common to most rodent feeding scars, are possible indicators of woodrat presence. However, such feeding sign is difficult to distinguish from other rodent feeding damage. A less ambiguous sign produced by this woodrat, are the patches of bark removed from the boles of trees for nest construction. From a distance, this debarking may be confused with that of the porcupine or tree squirrels. Unlike the tree squirrels that discard the bark and feed on the exposed sapwood, the bushy-tailed woodrat transports all of the removed bark to its nest for construction. Therefore, there will be no discarded strips of bark found beneath the trees damaged by bushy-tailed woodrats, as there would beneath trees damaged by tree squirrels or porcupines. In addition, woodrats do not feed on the sapwood, rather they just remove the outer bark (often the sapwood is not even exposed), whereas, porcupine and tree squirrel feeding will always expose the sapwood.

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April 9th, 2019

Westchester Wildlife – Raccoons | Rodent Control

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24-Hour Emergency Service Call (914) 760-5713

Office Hours: Mon-Fri 7:00am-7:00pm

Residential and Commercial wildlife exclusion and removal for Bats, Squirrels, Birds, Raccoons, Skunks, Snakes, Rats, Opossums, Groundhogs, Woodchucks and more.

Westchester Wildlife provides complete wildlife removal and exclusion services for both residential and commercial structures and properties. We are a widely used and respected company serving Westchester, Dutchess, Putnam, and Fairfield counties. Westchester Wildlife is environmentally conscious and follows all state regulations.

Owner Jim Dreisacker welcomes the opportunity to assist in animal removal, wildlife removal and exclusion concerning most residential andbusiness properties. We are environmentally conscious in the methods we use and follow all state regulations.

Call Westchester Wildlife for your free phone consultation or schedule an appointment with our qualified team of professionals. Westchester Wildlife your wildlife removal and exclusion experts.

Westchester Wildlife Bat and Wildlife Removal Services include Humane Wildlife Removal, Wildlife Trapping and Exclusion services in Fairfield County CT, Westchester County NY, Putnam County NY, and Duchess County NY residences and businesses. Bat Proofing, Humane Trapping, Bat Exclusion, Raccoon Removal, Flying squirrel removal, Raccoon Trapping, Bird Removal, Wildlife Inspections, Squirrel Removal, Groundhog Removal, Squirrel Trapping, Groundhog Trapping, Squirrel , Groundhog , Woodchuck Removal, Mouse Removal, Woodchuck Trapping, Mouse Trapping, Serving Fairfield County CT and Westchester County NY. Locally owned and operated, Licensed and Insured

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Westchester Wildlife – Raccoons | Rodent Control

March 26th, 2019

New York City Squirrel Removal and Wildlife Control Pro …

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In case you did not know, squirrels (both gray and flying) love to enter New York City all year round. Why?

This is because the cold evening temperatures force them to look for a warm place to rest. Apart from attics and floors, they can also commonly be found in exterior walls, using the insulation as their primary nesting material. Due to their playful nature not to mention their early rising times their presence causes discomfort to almost every homeowner. When you can hear them scratching and moving around in your ceiling, it can really get bad. All of these unwanted qualities make these creatures a nuisance, especially when you are trying to get some sleep.

But apart from disturbance, squirrels are also capable of considerable damage to your homes roof, exterior trim and siding. This is due to the fact that they tend to widen their hole or, often times, make a new one. Once they find their way into your property, they begin to gnaw on just about anything they can see. These include, but are not limited to, electrical wiring, walls, and other stuff hidden in places like your attic or storage sheds. There are even documented cases where squirrels have causes fires.IN In addition to being a nuisance that creates a lot of damage, they also carry with them fleas and other unwanted hitchhikers, all of which are capable of infesting your home once they gain entry.

As a licensed company, we are obliged to use a process that involves trapping while humanely euthanizing the nuisance creature, such as squirrels and raccoons. There is no overnight process involved but this is definitely the best option to use for a permanent solution. Not only does it work, but it also gets rid of the squirrel in the most humane way possible. Our goal is to remove the animal without causing prolonged stress to it or you.

It is also best to have a one-way door installed in your home, in the area that has been determined as their main entry and exit point. Sure, it may allow the squirrel to exit an area, but it perfectly prevents it from getting back inside. Just keep in mind that if they have left a young inside, or they simply love what is inside your home, it is very likely for them to find a way to get back in. This is where a one-way door that comes with live trapping and usually relocation becomes a great idea to utilize. As there are laws that muse be adhered to when trapping wildlife such as squirrels, only a licensed professional such is allowed to do so.

Once the squirrel is relocates to a different area or place, they are not just in for finding new resources and shelter. That is because they will also be exposed to territorial and social rank battle with other squirrels. Squirrels are very interesting creatures in general, but the pesky ones in New York City really take the cake with their aggressive antics and non-stop exploring which ends up with them in so many New Yorkers homes and businesses.

Although preventing squirrels from getting into your property is a difficult task, it is still possible and necessary. If raccoons and skunks are fond of ripping or digging just to invade an area, squirrels are into chewing through a different type of materials, thanks to their very strong teeth. Their teeth continually grow, requiring them to chew for extended periods of time. Squirrels are just not into giving up into an area, especially when they think they have the chance. Heck, they would even climb trees and jump as high as 6 feet just to get into your roof or windows. This tenacity only means that you also need to do some serious and effective reinforcements. And that is why we are here we are your go-to company in solving this squirrel problem of yours.

We are known to have an innovative and effective approach when it comes to integrated pest management. This is, in fact, a prerequisite when work involves sensitive environments (e.g. food production facilities and hospitals). With constant training, our exterminators have a specific way of delivering on a job no matter the size. Lastly, we make sure that there is no stone left unturned and our technicians are truly super friendly and professional, to keep you at ease throughout the process.

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March 11th, 2019

Solar Powered Nite-Guard Flashes Red Lights to Keep Night …

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Question about the Nite-GuardAnimal Control Light.

Q:”How does the Nite-Guard work? How many do I need to protect my yard from raccoons? Do I need to mount them differently for deer?” Thanks. George

Answer: The Nite-Guard Solar is a new addition to animal control products. Solar powered, each Nite-Guard light flashes a red light on and off from dusk to dawn. Scientific research shows that night animals flee when they see the red flashing light as they fear they have been discovered or are being watched. This completely weatherproof animal pest repeller works best if used in multiples of at least 4 units. Otherwise the animal most likely will enter your yard or property from a direction away from the flashing red. Each light mounts to flash in only one direction with anapproximate 30 degree angle of sight as one moves right or left away from it. Thisis why multiple units are needed and spacing between lights is needed as well.

If mounted high,the light can be seen for a long distance, depending on the lay of the land. A flat, open area with four Nite Guards placed at 10 for owls will protect an area 1/2 mile in each direction. Even at 3 feet off the ground a range of several hundred yards’ protectionis common. A night predator stops the instanthe sees the flash. So mount lights according to what you want to keep away. Deer will respond to higher lights than bobcats, raccoons, etc.

For small predators, these are the manufacturer’s installation instructions:

For predators like raccoon, opossum and skunk; put lights approximately 25 feet apart, around your entire perimeter (all four sides of the area) and place them eye level to the predators approximately 10-12 inches off the ground. If the area has sides longer than 50 feet, more lights should be used on each side. Face lights outward from protected area.

For deer, these are the installation instructions:

1. Four Nite Guard lights placed on a single stake 4 feet high, each light facing a different direction. Moving the Nite Guard lights and stake every 7 to 10 days is absolutely critical as it breaks the pattern that deer may get used to. You do not have to move them far, 20 or 30 feet is fine, more is better. If you do not move the post with the lights around the deer will begin to pattern them in the exact position night after night, thusly losing fear of the flash.

NOTE: Deer are perhaps the most destructive nocturnal animal in modern times, they are also the most intelligent. Deer are very hard to deter from an area and, with the exception of the Nite Guard, will ignore most attempts to stop them from getting at the food that they want. The also act differently than a predator type animal and so we need to approach the placement of the lights differently.

2. You could also use a perimeter type placement against deer, placing lights 100 feet apart and approx. 4 feet high. Again, you will need to move the lights around every 3-10 days to break the pattern. Suggestion: Use the Nite Guard in conjunction with some of the other weapons they may already have in their arsenal against deer. Most people with deer problems are very well away of the deers intelligence and know that they get used to things easily. Use the Nite Guard lights along with some type of repellant spray. The deer then will not only see the predator (the flash of the light), but they will also smell the predator. This can be a very powerful deterrent for those deer that seem impossible to repel. You will be able to outsmart deer and protect your gardens and crops with the Nite Guards!

Some suggestions about deer deterent sprays or granules are: Deer Scram , a granular repellent; Deer Away spray for deer and squirrels by Havahart and Deer Off Deer and Rabbit Spray by Havahart. All three use natural scent repellents.

This is a solar powered unit that is completely weatherproof. Daylight as well as direct sunlight can power the battery. Best results are when the solar panel is mounted to capture the most light.

Thank you for your questions.



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Solar Powered Nite-Guard Flashes Red Lights to Keep Night …

March 5th, 2019

Beware of Aggressive Yellow Jackets | Sterns Chatter

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Yellow jackets are one of Augusts more unpleasant pests. These aggressive predatory wasps are most numerous in late summer and early fall. They live in massive colonies of 4,000 to 5,000, building their nests in the ground, in trees or shrubs, and in protected places around your home, like eaves, attics, sheds, etc. A single yellow jacket is capable of stinging multiple times. If their nest is threatened, they will swarm out and attack aggressively.

In Cowpens, South Carolina a man died this past Saturday from yellow jacket stings. Michael Goodwin, 52, ran over a ground nest while mowing his lawn that morning. Within an hour he had died of anaphylactic shock which caused his airway to swell, effectively suffocating him.

Goodwin had been stung before with no severe reaction, but thats the problem with yellow jackets and, in fact, most bees and hornets. Repeated exposure to venom can result in dangerous, even fatal, symptoms, despite a lack of previous problems. Goodwin worked outside and according to his son, John, Hes been stung probably a hundred times in his life, and it never flared up like that. Over time, sensitivity to venom can increase to dangerous levels.

As summer barbecues give way to fall tailgate parties, watch out for yellow jackets zeroing in on sugary drinks, ripe fruit and overflowing trash cans. Insect sprays and powders can be used to control nests in lawns, but anyone who is worried about a nest or who is planning a large picnic or outdoor wedding should consult a professional exterminator.

Avoid yellow jacks when possible. If one flies near you, do not strike at it or run rapidly as quick movements will provoke an attack. Although humans can outrun the wasps, which have a top flying speed of 6 to 7 mph, you could suffer more than a dozen painful stings triggered by your movement before you could run out of range. Dont strike or crush a yellow jacket against your body. This releases an alarm pheromone that can incite a frenzied attack. If yellow jackets are bothering you, your best defense is to cover your face with your hands and back away slowly, making sure not to step on a ground nest. Move indoors if at all possible.

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Beware of Aggressive Yellow Jackets | Sterns Chatter

February 17th, 2019

Wildlife Removal NYC – Skunk Removal, Squirrel Removal …

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Our professional NYC wildlife removal services involve the humane removal of wildlife from homes and businesses.

B & D Pest Solutions is well equipped to safely remove wild animals from your property. While doing so, we adhere to strict guidelines and laws.

We are dedicated not only to removing invasive wildlife and pests from your home, we can also save you time and money by helping you prevent further problems.

Our wildlife removal services also include replacing damaged insulation and sealing all entry points, thereby preventing future intrusions and making your home safer and more efficient.

If you hear strange noises from your attic in the middle of the night, a wild animal may have invaded your home. These animals can cause a lot of damage once they are able to enter your home. They move about the walls, attic, and crawlspaces of the building, chew on wooden furniture, gnaw on electrical wires, and tear up your insulation. Not only this, they deposit feces and other germ laden material. They also become defensive of the space they have intruded. Our experts often come across situations where the animal chews off electrical wire coatings and expose wires. This greatly increases the risk of short circuits and house fires.

If you are having issues with wildlife on your property, the safest and most humane way for us to remove them is to set up appropriate bait and traps, depending on the wildlife species you are targeting. Once the animal is trapped, they are humanely relocated to a safe place such as a wildlife preserve.

Each wildlife control situation is unique, so an initial inspection is necessary before we devise an animal removal plan. The trapping techniques we employ vary for each type of animal we encounter.

Our NYC wildlife removal experts carry out a detailed inspection of the attic and other areas where intrusion is suspected, in order to identify the species of wildlife we are trying to remove. We also try to gauge the condition of the roof and exterior in order to determine how the animal is entering the building. Once we have identified the access points, we develop a plan to seal them off so that any future invasions can be prevented. Finally, after the animal has been removed and access points have been sealed, we carry out sanitation treatment to cleanse your home of any microbes the animal would have left behind.

If you suspect the presence of wildlife in your home, it is usually not a good idea to try removing it yourself. Remember, you dont know what you are dealing with and how the animal is going to react to your efforts.

B & D Pest Solutions is a full service wildlife removal and pest control company. We provide animal removal services for both residential and commercial properties. Our wildlife removal experts have years of experience under their belt, and are capable of removing a variety of animals.

We are a licensed and insured company, and we pride ourselves in our unparalleled ability to solve your pest related problems!

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Wildlife Removal NYC – Skunk Removal, Squirrel Removal …

February 17th, 2019

Always Trap Feral Kittens, Don’t Chase ‘Em Down and Bag ‘Em!

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(Photo by Urban Cat League)

by Mike Phillips, NYC Feral Cat Initiative

Chasing down feral kittens and grabbing them is always a bad idea, even when successful. The stress and anxiety for the kittens can take weeks for them to overcome. I imagine their instinct must convince the kittens that the person chasing them is set upon eating them. When that same person tries to pet them, and hold them, and nurture them, Ill take that bet as to how receptive they will be.

Trapping removes a human presence from the terrifying experience of being separated from their mother and the life they know. The human can then actually take a positive role when we offer food and reunite them with their siblings. The less the kittens associate humans with their trauma, the faster we can gain their trust and tame them for adoption.

Trapping Technique

Heres my ideal scenario for a successful trapping of mom and kittens:

Before starting any trapping, I feed the mom and kittens for several days from a trap that I secure open with a cable-tie to make sure no one gets trapped before Im ready. I put a big bowl of food in the back of the trap and a trail of food from front to back. The objective is to make sure that even the shyest kittens and mom are not afraid to go into the trap before you start trapping. Trust me, doing this will save you hours and days of trap-watching. If you cant leave a trap out safely, try it even for the short time you are there feeding each day. Padlock the trap (secured open) to a fence if there is any risk of the trap being stolen or tampered with. Hide it under a bush if you can safely leave it for all the cats to get confident going into it without hesitation.

Normally, moms trot out their litters to the feeding station at about six weeks old. If you saw when the mom got skinny (after delivering her litter), you can set up the trap (tied open) about six weeks later and start training mom to go into it even before she brings the kittens along too. Nursing moms are extremely hungry and sometimes, it is only when nursing that you can hope to trap a very wary female.

You probably wont see all the kittens the first day or two. There are usually a couple of very shy ones who wont dare to follow mom the first day or two. Once mom and all the kittens have been seen going into the trap to eat without hesitation, only then are you ready to start the trapping project.

PHOTO 1: Notice that the string is taut and ready to be pulled. This way it will not distract the cat in the trap as the string is pulled. They can be out and gone before you even get the string straight and taut. Some people tie the string to the bottom of the bottle for less of a visual distraction. (Photo by Urban Cat League)

I always try to trap mom first and get her safely out of the picture with no kitten witnesses. Moms usually leave the den in mid-afternoon to look for food while the litter is still sleeping. This is the perfect time to set the trap for her and whisk her away to a basement, garage, or bathtub for holding, after covering the trap with a sheet to keep her as calm as possible. Make sure your vet isnt one of the less experienced ones who wont spay a lactating female. Most vets experienced with ferals will do it without a problem. After six weeks, mom is ready to start weaning the kittens and she can be spayed safely after this point. If you prefer to spay her later, thats fine, but in a large TNR project, sometimes you need to spay when you get the chance and not risk another litter. Its your choice, time, and energy, but getting mom spayed should be a priority and not forgotten just because there are kittens to deal with.

I trap mom in the conventional way, setting the trip plate, but with the kittens, I switch to the bottle and string technique shown in photo 1. This way I can be sure a second or third kitten is not in the way of the door or gets caught when the door comes down. You may even get lucky and get two or three kittens at a time as they crowd into the back of the trap around the dish of food.

Get the shyest kittens first. Dont be in a hurry and greedily trap the first and bravest kittens to go into the trap. Learn how many there are before you start trapping and keep track of which ones are the last to come to the party. Late afternoon near dusk is the usual time for kittens to leave the den and come to the feeding station where youve trained them to go into the trap without hesitation. The shy ones will freak if they witness the brave ones getting trapped. When you start to trap the kittens, let the brave ones eat and go if necessary to wait for the shy ones. Youll always get another chance with the brave ones. The shy ones are the smart ones and they wont give you a second chance for some time if you blow it the first time. They are used to mom being away for periods of time without worrying so dont worry about that. Wait until the shyest one, or hopefully two, are in the trap eating together to pull the string for the first time. Even if a couple of the braver ones witness this, theyll come back soon enough but not vice versa. The shyer/smarter ones will hightail it back to the den and not come out for a day or more if they witness the trapping of the braver ones, or if half their family mysteriously disappears. Get them first and youll be done with everyone in short order. Even if the brave ones have eaten and gone, they wont hesitate to come back the next day and eagerly load into the trap. Dont be in a hurry. Wait until you get the shy one(s) first, with no other shy witnesses, if at all possible.

PHOTO 2: In the reverse situation, when mom isn’t trapped first and won’t go near the trap, the bottle and string are also necessary because putting another trap inside a trap renders the trip plate unusable. Hopefully the kitten will call out to mom. For the photo, the trap is out in the open, but trapping may work better in a secluded area or with the end of the trap covered so mom will need to go into the trap to approach the kitten. (Photo by Urban Cat League)

PHOTO 3: Mom can be used as bait if the kittens won’t come out to be trapped. (Photo by Urban Cat League)

In that case, I put mom or another kitten sibling in a trap and put that trap inside a larger trap or under a drop trap. (A small cat or squirrel trap fits inside the bigger raccoon traps.) The kitten will often come out to see the mom and can be trapped in a regular trap using the bottle and string or with the drop trap.

Six weeks old is OK to separate mom and kittens. Start the kittens right away with socialization for adoption, and TNR mom and return her for continued outdoor care. Dont forget to have her eartipped!

For information about taming feral kittens, attend one of our upcoming workshops on taming feral kittens or look for information at

About the AuthorMike Phillips, LVT, is the Community Outreach Coordinator for the NYC Feral Cat Initiative of the Mayors Alliance for NYCs Animals. Mike prepares presentations for the general public, trappers, and professional audiences; heads up our community outreach efforts; and responds to requests for information about taming feral kittens, trapping assistance, and feral-friendly spay/neuter resources. Mike is a co-founder of Urban Cat League, a former president of Neighborhood Cats, and has worked as the Veterinary Technician Supervisor at the ASPCA Adoption Center in New York City and worked in the ASPCA Animal Hospitals ICU and on the ASPCAs Mobile Spay/Neuter Clinic. His tried-and-true taming techniques are featured in Tough Love: Socializing Feral Kittens, a video used by animal shelters around the world. Mikes day job that pays for all that kitty litter is working for New York City Opera, where hes a resident stage director.

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Always Trap Feral Kittens, Don’t Chase ‘Em Down and Bag ‘Em!

February 12th, 2019

Squirrel problem – Trapperman Forums

Comments Off on Squirrel problem – Trapperman Forums, Uncategorized, by admin.

I collect up walnuts as I have no walnut trees , I keep a pail of them and toss a walnut to the back of a live trap , when they go in for it , they are dinner.

I have also use peanuts but those are best placed in a can wired to the back so they can’t grab them without going in

I guess I have also used bird seed and corn.

try some of each

why do you need to give it a home , even people in NYC can live trap squirrel and eat them.

take them in your garage where it is legal to discharge a pellet gun and have dinner town squirrels are well fed and quite tasty.

relocation may be against the law check your regs it would be here unless you own or have permission to release animals from the owner

some hardware cloth and a big hose clamp to cover the pipe might be in order

I have trapped squirrel in my yard till I go a week empty with 2 set traps every fall for about 5 years , there are always new squirrels a month later they move in

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Squirrel problem – Trapperman Forums